Saturday, November 22, 2008

Medea's Blog Day #1 Iran Citizen Diplomacy

Medea Benjamin November 22, 2008

DAY ONE in Tehran
What an extraordinary day! After arriving at our hotel in the middle of the night, I woke up early raring to go. Our hotel is in a great location downtown, and I took some time before our meetings to buy some beautiful crafts in the nearby stores and chat with the storeowners. After a hearty Iranian breakfast that included delicious tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh eggs, cheese, yoghurt, flat bread and mouth-watering olives, the “work day” began for the three of us—myself, CODEPINK cofounder Jodie Evans and Col. Ann Wright.

Our first meeting was with our dear friend Rostam Pourzal, who works with the anti-sanctions group CASMI. Rostam used to live in Washington DC, but moved back to Iran recently. Thank goodness he came to greet us, because it turned out that the government person who was supposed to set up our schedule today didn’t show up. So Rostam filled in the day for us with an amazing variety of activities and meetings.

First, he brought over a filmmaker, Habib Ahmadzadeh, who works on films that deal with the Iran-Iraq war. Habib took us out to a delicious lunch in a typical, old Persian restaurant where we ate scrumptious lamb, eggplant and kabobs. Then we went to his office, but along the way he stopped to show us the old, abandoned U.S. Embassy. It is now surrounded by murals with anti-American slogans—a stark reminder of the harsh rhetoric emanating from both governments.

In a screening room at his office, Habib showed us one of his beautiful films called Night Bus. It chronicled a fictionalized story that reflected Habib’s own odyssey as a teenage soldier during that war. An 18-year-old Iranian soldier ends up being in charge of transporting 38 Iraqi prisoners of war from the battlefield to an Iranian base. During the adventure-packed ride full of agony, betrayal and bonding, the Iraqi and Iranian men discover their common humanity. We were all weeping when the lights came on, and had a long discussion afterwards about the futility of war. Habib also showed us a short docudrama about the 20-year anniversary of the July 3 downing of an Iranian commercial airline by a US navy ship in which over 200 people died—a terrible tragedy for which the U.S. government has never apologized. There are so many sad pieces of our history that most Americans are unaware of, but that make us seem so callous in the eyes of the victims…

From there we went to a refreshing artists’ park, replete with a beautiful sculpture exhibit, art stores, and a café/vegetarian restaurant inside. Most of the people milling around looked like—and were—painters, writers, playwrights, filmmakers and poets. It was a cultural oasis, with conversations buzzing inside and outside. We added to the animated atmosphere by having a table full of people coming and going to meet and greet us. Most were called by Rostam, but a few—like a nuclear engineer Jodie met—just came by out of curiosity (yes, the pink does stand out). Among those joining us for tea was a famous woman filmmaker named Rakhshan Banietemad, a woman who runs an eco-tourism company, a producer of plays, and several women who work for peace.

We were so thrilled by the conversation that we asked if any of them would be willing to be filmed. We decided that it would be great to ask Iranians from all walks of life to comment on what they would say to Barack Obama if they had the chance. Some of the women were afraid to be videoed, but Rakhshan, who was in a more secure position because of her prominence, agreed. So with the help of Habib as cameraman, I interviewed Rakhshan about US-Iranian relations and what could be done to move our countries toward a more peaceful path. With so many incredible connections being made, our tea turned into dinner (which the Iranians refused to let us pay for) and we didn’t get back to the hotel until about 9:30 pm.


But it turned out that the day was not yet over. At about 10:30pm, while I was checking email at the internet café, two of our dear young friends from the group Miles for Peace showed up. It was great to reunite after our time together in Washington DC. They are so bubbly, so hopeful, so creative, so loving. We heard about some of their upcoming ideas for youth exchanges with the US—soccer matches, swimming the Persian Gulf (!), a bike trip through Iran with 50 Iranian-Americans. All such terrific ideas. We will meet with the larger Miles for Peace group tomorrow evening.


Reflecting on the days’ events, I was struck by how much more open Iran is than I had thought. Yes, we have to wear headscarves and long coats, but that seems so unimportant --although I must say that I feel very claustrophobic covering my head all day. (During lunch at the restaurant, Rostam told me I could take the scarf off, but about 20 minutes later some men came to complain.) I have been comparing the atmosphere here to that of Iraq under Saddam Hussein and here it is very different. People in Iraq were afraid to speak out against Saddam, people in Iran aren’t. We heard criticism of the government while we were still on the plane. Then in customs, when an official asked our guide why we had come to Iran and she replied “trying to make peace,” he laughed and said, “Not with this terrible government of ours.” The taxi drivers complain; western-educated elites complain, businessmen complain. While most wouldn’t want to be filmed venting against their government, they talk to us in an amazingly open fashion, barely looking over their shoulders to see if anyone is listening. I suppose I shouldn’t jump to conclusions after one day, but the atmosphere is much more open than I thought it would be, and that in itself is reason for hope.

17 comments:

CODEPINK said...

How I would love to be there!! My mouth is watering after reading your descriptions of the meals there.

Is it cold?? I brought home an Iranian film that was depressing called "Leila". Ask your Iranian acquaintances what they think of it.

Zahra Sharifi said...

Medea Benjamin, you're one pathetic sociopath. You want to hate your own stupid country so much, you go right ahead but mess around with Iran and Iranian? I don't think so. Haven't we had enough of Ramsey Clark where now, you, his whore puppets are in there fluffing up the Mullahs? Who the hell do you cultural imperialist cow think you are? You want real hospitality? You ain't seen nothing until you get a full frontal view of what the Mullahs do to us Iranian women you spoiled twat. Meanwhile, you won't mind if we broadcast some of your photos to our friends and family in Iran so that they can come to spit in your face, in Tehran, would you? I mean since you stole the photo of innocent Iranian women and changed the image around, photoshopped some lies on there and shamelessly put it up...I think the women in Iran deserve to know who is aiding and abetting their oppressors, don't you? I mean, hey, if you scream for transparency in your own country, then you damn well better want the same in ours...but you won't because you WANT to keep our women downtrodden because that's what colonialists like you do.

DMartyr said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Elric66 said...

Did you get to see any homosexual executions while you were there?

Winston said...

when many Iranians can get a full meal, these idiots eat off the people's oil money and rant against the country that has given the freedom to travel and be idiots. How sad! Code Pink makes me puke

What is "Occupation" said...

Please enjoy your trip...

Don't tell them you are friends of Israelis or Zionists...

They will hang you after gang raping and torturing you.

You are IN Iran... congrats..

The President? A historic mass murderer..

Think of that fact when you meet with him...

How many 10's of thousands of children did he personally send to be human mine sweepers?

I doubt you care...

But please don't ask about Iranian-Canadian photojournalist Zahra Kazemi you could care less....

Please enjoy your hosts....

The persian people HATE the government of Iran even more than you hate Buh....

We have a word for you all...

useful idiots...

Unknown said...

You don't just hurt the prospect of peace, but you feed the propaganda of Iran against its own people who suffer, while you get to go back to the wealthy, freedom filled, equal opportunity country you hate that defends hypocrites like yourself.

My wish is that we could trade three Iranians for the three of you. Then you could spend of you lives in Iran as subjects of that regime.

tweedburst said...

Benjamin, Evans and Wright are living, breathing examples of the banality of evil. Utterly brain dead, selfish monsters.

David C Beach said...

Code pink is children playing, they have no idea what they are doing but they love the attention. In the end when there actions have led to the death of many like Jane Fonda they will accept no blame and just walk away. Leftists only learn by repeated ass kickings.
David C Beach

Joan Stallard said...

Diplomats and other international experts encourage the spread of a peaceful world by coming to know the people in countries where we have poor or no relationship.

Reading the comments so far, it appears the crazies are coming out of the wall. If these three women can manage to go to Iran and learn from the Iranian people directly what their life is like, what they think about their government, and what they think about our people and our government then I'm very interested in reading their full reports. All three of these women are well travelled, well read, and know lots of sophisticated professionals. They represent an outspoken, activist group of antiwar women and, in Col. Wright, an experienced, courageous diplomat who has provided continuous support to a long list of American military struggling for fair treatment from our government.

So I want to hear everything they have to report. And the personal slams against them diminish those who use them including any opinion they manage to convey. The threats against them are outrageous. These three women carry a message of peace. I cannot respect the actions of any government that abuses its people. The three women, strong human rights advocates all, will likely find multiple ways to make their opinions known to Iranians.

Americans do business with loads of countries with governments with human rights abuses (China). As we become more of a presence there, pressure grows to reduce the abuses because they're out in the open far more.

Let's keep a dialog going here and keep it reasonable.

David C Beach said...

I have talked to the code pink girls and I assure you they are not helping anything other than themselves. As for crazies coming out of the wall your the only one. Dialog that!

LaFajita said...

Apparently the Shah still has a fan club somewhere.

What is it about peace and social justice that brings out the worst in some people?

Love your country like a child, and your country will behave like a child.

Love your country like an adult, and perhaps - just perhaps - it will behave like an adult.

S.B. said...

I was gonna post something, but I can see that any response has already been placed.

And you just KNOW they are reading these comments and think that WE are the moonbats...

DMartyr said...

did you remove my comment? All I'd written was for Iranian Zahra Sharifi above to "Stay safe."

Did it offend you for me to imply women aren't always safe in Iran?

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This weekend, be that as it may, S. returned home for a grievously concise visit and we hosted a little supper gathering to celebrate with a portion of his companions. Shunning my typical motivation to make modest Megadarra, we really spent a little money and got some decent veg and chicken for the meat eaters, for the vegans we had a stunning legacy: V'Con's CHICKPEA CUTLETS!!! This isn't whenever I've first made them, however broiling them in a cast iron skillet carries them to an unheard of level of energetic, crunchy goodness. Different veggie lovers, unmistakably hoping to simply eat sides of course, were horribly dazzled. I, when all is said and done, had failed to remember how great they are, and they are likewise brilliant broke food as they comprise of pretty essential storeroom staples (at any rate, by veggie lover guidelines not certain everybody considers wheat gluten flour to be a storage space staple yet I generally have some available.)

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Ginger Beer Carrots, a la Good Eats

-1 pack (~2 lb.) carrots, stripped and cut on the predisposition into 1/2'' adjusts
-1 container excellent ginger brew (not soda)
-2 Tbsp. non-dairy margarine
-squeezes every one of salt, pepper, cumin
-parsley (discretionary)

1. Place carrots in huge skillet with ginger lager, cumin and margarine over medium hotness. Stew 5-8 minutes, or until fluid is for the most part cooked off.
2. Turn heat as far as possible up to high, salt and pepper generously, and cook while mixing until carrots are getting carmelized and penetrate effectively (with some opposition). Serve sprinkled with parsley.